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I’m repairing and cleaning a Sega Mega Drive II (Genesis II). // Kindly sponsored by my favorite PCB manufacturer PCBWay!
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35 comments
I’ve never seen one with red buttons.
Nice work, Jan!
Great video, mine only showing a black screen atm. Got it from my brother who got it from a shutdowned Coffee Shop he needed to clean up en empty the building) and as you know people smoking a lot (of weed) in there. No PSU (u can use a PlayStation One PSU, same voltage), no Games but came with a Atari Joystick. Bought two games, but still black screen, got IPA recently and soon as i have the time i will clean out the Cartridge slot and the games with it and i hope that it works then 🙂
One can guess what is wrong with a Mega Drive, they seem to only break in those ways and the caps they somehow haven’t gone bad yet!
A clean & repaired Mega Drive is no longer angry emoji!
If you know the 7805 is defective, a easy way to remove it is cut the pins and later remove the stubs from the board
Ah yes, it seems that they used the technical terms to describe its' operational status… 😛
Thanks for another nice video Jan; when you first opened the case I thought "someone has already replaced all (electrolitic) capacitors', that's how it looked to me. Are you sure those are the original capacitors?
Back in those 199? Days,having a Sega mega drive was a virtue😀 for a kid and gift from heavens,not everyone as a guest was elligible enough to touch the precious Sega😂.good old days are gone for good,you know…
16:00 there was a diagram for the pins engraved on the plastic part of the plug.
Gute Arbeit! Du brauchst echt mal ne Lupe. Am besten eine kosmetiklampe. Hilft auch bei SMD Arbeiten
It's not F****d anymore, it's F*****g fixed!
Hallo Jan, 7805S ist die isolierte Version des Reglers. 78S05 ist die 2Amp. Version. Bei dieser Reparatur scheint es egal zu sein, aber wenn mehrere Spannungsregler (z.B.: 7805 und 7905) mit dem selben Kühlkörper gekühlt werden, dann musst du die Spannungsregler isoliert aufsetzen!
Does the Mega Drive 2 also require Center negative PSU???
That's why I put in a FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER in my two Mega Drive 1.
So I can use modern SMPS….
And I also replaced, what I think is the Input capacitor, a 16V/220µF one, with a 470µF Nichicon on one and a 1000µF Kemet A750 in the other one (because i was out of Nichicons)
Fun fact:
The old 9/10V unregulated PSU that came with the Mega Drive are really more in the ballpark of modern 12V Regulated PSU.
I measured ~14V Idle for my Original Mega Drive Power Supply and 11,75V under Load.
Another thing: If you are at around 13,5V or lower at idle and 11,5V and lower under load, you need to replace the 3300µF/16V Cap inside.
I also have an old, Linear 12V PSU: unloaded it does 16V.
Due to Rippleness of modern PSU, I think it might make sense to replace the Input caps with Polymer or a mixture of Polymer and Ceramic capacitors instead.
At least a New video!!!
here in the us we call it the genesis instead of megadrive and im not actually sure who came up with the idea
Awesome repair. I love seeing this stuff fixed. On my model 1 and model 2 Sega Genesis consoles I had the same issues with the reset button and ended up sourcing a new button for both of them.
Very good repair. I think there must be several different versions of the Mega Drive II. I bought a lot of 3 on Ebay as broken and when I opened them, all 3 of them were different inside.
Zerbrochen is more like "smashed" I guess you would say.
I have two Megadrive II and both works perfectly. The market has been flooded with these machines and even if they were cheaper done most of the time they works better then the first version. The second one I bought for almost nothing since it had no box and cables. I even got a cool rent box and a RGB-cable.
Mega Drive 2 model used a different AV output from the first generation machine, with a much smaller plug design, however it brought the welcome addition of Stereo Audio along with the Composite Video signal (whereas the original Mega Drive only had Mono audio output, and relied on the headphone socket for stereo sound conectivity. If you have a TV with RGN SCART input, consider getting the best picture possible with a Multi-AV to RGB SCART Cable.
Oh, I see evil Bert is keeping an eye on things!
For things like that regulator, preheating the board (and heatsink) with hot air works wonders.
For the damaged ground pad.. im not actually sure why they bothered to use a plastic-cased 7805 here. The heatsink is connected to ground, and the centre tab of a TO-220 is connected to the middle pin – also ground!!
"Repairing the fu**ed revision of the Mega Drive II board"…
Wenn du das Gehäuse zum Schluss mit ein wenig Cockpitreiniger abwischst, sieht das Gerät am Ende noch einen Tick sauberer aus. Das Zeug entfernt zumindest die kleineren Kratzer ziemlich gut….
I had MD II in the 90s and love this console forever!
Nice job another one saved from the scrap heap 👍
Another great vídeo. Thanks for the entertainment Jan
Watching somebody wash dishes in the kitchen sink: boring. Watching somebody wash vintage electronics cases in the kitchen sink: entertaining!
I know you meant channel/tunnel, but I keep thinking about a version of the Channel Tunnel inside the plastic now
Not to be rude, but this MD2 board does actually have a Z80. While a Toshiba clone in this case, it's the tiny square chip near the Sega logo and "PC BD MD2 VA0 PAL" text.
Help mr. sega mega md2 when playing a few minutes freeze/stuck scren
The z80 was often thrown in to that large ASIC chip, starting with the 315 label. Originally on model 1s it was just the VDP but later down the line they put more and more components into that ASIC.
8:20 was afraid you were gonna stab yourself with that screwdriver, i've done stuff like that…
I'm trying to find online, sorry if you mentioned it in the video, but when was the mega drive 2 released?